Re: Advantura Rebuild

Post by johnnyonions » Subscribing Member » Tue Aug 01, 2017 7:41 pm
Joined: Tue Apr 28, 2015 11:33 am
Posts: 269
In repairing my Pioneer the build quality (or lack of) is exactly the same , the only wood batons that I could find that were nearest was treated roof latt from B&Q and Wickes , where it was thicker it was just doubled up , glued and screwed , then I scarfed (7 to 1) , it into the nearest good timber and beefed up under the join with latt screwed and glued. although it wasnt as bad as yours it was where the roof to side join was , the screws had rusted out and water got into the timbers and rotted , also round a roof vent . on the bright side the repairs have stood the test of time , touch wood :thumb:

John

Left Wall, Rain and Stuff

Post by RobX » Subscribing Member » Sun Aug 06, 2017 10:36 pm
Joined: Fri Aug 12, 2016 8:52 pm
Posts: 88
@John: glad to hear your repairs are hanging in there... I did a similar thing with a Merc 508D-based camper a few years ago where the lower half was rotted out through lack of attention to window seals.

Another couple of weeks have shot by - time for an update. The left wall, from the door to the back anyway, is now completed. I've not got the final shot, but this is almost it:
Image

I'm quite pleased with it - I'd already made the rear frames and I'm glad I did because I learnt some things not to do, and I didn't do them when I made this frame (hope that makes sense!) Having a swing set in your front garden sure is handy too. When I do the other side, I'll do a step-by-step explaining what I did differently, but the main points are:
1) make a plan, and label each beam,
2) don't cut to length - add 2cm and use 1cm from one end as your datum (jigsaw off then sand down the tails after),
3) mark up as many of your horizontals or vertical clamped together as you can (some are more critical than others: do these first),
4) only measure to one side of the halving joint - then lay the correct beam across (see point 1!) and use that to scribe the other side,
5) mark with a blade, not a pencil/pen/etc.

This gives a very satisfying result when the joints slot together snugly into perfect right-angles.

As the finishing touches were drying, etc. I started on the disassembly of old wall, and here's a shot of what this model looks like under the lower skin:
Image

If you look back at the new frame you'll see an error: the base horizontal can't cross the wheel well: it needs to be cut and replaced with a solid piece similar to the one you can see here. No big deal: I just cut a few bits out and knocked up a similar piece.

Worst thing about the last week and a half has been the rain - not so much the rain itself as the actually ludicrous inaccuracy of the BBC weather forecast for my post code - and I've finally had enough and have ordered a motorhome cover. It seems modern campers are much bigger than mine, as even the smallest cover is 40cm wider and 90cm longer than this Advantura. That means I'll actually be able to work under the cover even if it's raining (which it certainly will) by making something like tent poles to support the cover. I won't be building frames like the one above, but there'll be lots of interior stuff I can get on with.

It also means I can do this job almost properly. Inside, I've fitted a CLS support to the roof, so now the left wall can come off and I can fit the new one. Having a cover means there's no rush to get the skin back on: I can build the frame, put the interior wall panels up, fit furniture, route the electrics, etc. When it's all as I want it, then the skin can go on in one go - hopefully in a single week of (relatively) good weather.

Hope to get the new wall in by next weekend, then it's on to the front of the left wall, which is only about half the work of the rear in terms of wood, but the Luton and the slope in the roof should make it a more interesting technical exercise.

Re: Advantura Rebuild

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Post by Phil Bradshaw » Club admin » Mon Aug 07, 2017 1:24 pm
Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2012 7:15 pm
Posts: 3468
Someone has been busy. :)

As you progress you'll likely find reasons for other changes to your original plan. So it goes ...

Best of luck with BSW (British Standard Wet).
  • What is real is not the external form but the idea, the essence of things. Constantin Brâncuși

Re: Advantura Rebuild

Post by johnnyonions » Subscribing Member » Thu Aug 10, 2017 10:26 pm
Joined: Tue Apr 28, 2015 11:33 am
Posts: 269
Crikey ! that's some job , the most I do is cut out the Rot to the good wood and scarff in and bolster up with those metal angle brackets , can't smell any damp in the van so I must be on top of the rot.
Hope the weather gods smile on you :)

No sooner said than...

Post by RobX » Subscribing Member » Thu Aug 10, 2017 10:30 pm
Joined: Fri Aug 12, 2016 8:52 pm
Posts: 88
Well, John, I got the cover which was definitely a great investment: I am no longer a slave to the elements!

So I ripped off the left wall, which meant I could see the full extent of any damage to the floor... and so the plan does change again as I've decided to replace the floor too. In fact: it's looking like I'm going to strip it right down the chassis and starting the whole thing almost from scratch (as you first suggested, Phil!) I could make a frame out of CLS with the cover over it and have my own little building tent... seem to be talking myself into it. :)

Here's what it looks like under the floor:
Image
Hmm. Came out a bit bright because the phone was making it too dark, so I fiddled. Some more fiddling needed, clearly.

New floor will be more or less the same structure as the original: 12mm ply on top, 20mm beams with polystyrene insulation between and 3.6mm ply on the bottom. Small bonus of not have two dozen holes I don't want as well as the dozen more I'll make that I do. I'll paint the bottom gloss white to keep it bright and clean under there so I can see what I'm doing when I overhaul the rear axle and suspension one day.

To end on a question: the chassis has just surface rust but while it's open I might as well paint it; is Hammerite OK for that?

Re: Advantura Rebuild

Post by johnnyonions » Subscribing Member » Fri Aug 11, 2017 9:06 am
Joined: Tue Apr 28, 2015 11:33 am
Posts: 269
Ironwork I,m wire brushing , red oxide undercoat , then underseal , hopefully that,ll keep the rust at bay for a few years

John

Six weeks progress...

Post by RobX » Subscribing Member » Thu Sep 28, 2017 9:46 pm
Joined: Fri Aug 12, 2016 8:52 pm
Posts: 88
I planned to update this every couple of weeks, but it's been a busy few fortnights! The old floor is all gone, along with both side walls and the front wall too. Everything had a degree of rot and damp that meant nothing was worth salvaging. The front end problems were all down to the aluminium on the front panels having eroded away. I suspect it was a case of the screws rusting, expanding and coming into contact with the aluminium; then reacting to erode the holes. Water access was then easy... and so it began. Given the extent of what I found, these leaks must have started in the previous century/millennium.

Here's a few pictures of progress:

Image
The first (rearmost) floor section being glued together. The general idea was to make the frame as accurate as possible, then trim the two plywood sheets to the frame.

Image
The same section completed and trimmed to size. The cut outs are for the wheel clearance.

Image
Meanwhile, here's the middle of the chassis. No rot in any of it - just surface rust where the original paint has gone. Campers likely get less regular use than any other kind of van. Note the 2" x 2" beams that are coach bolted to the chassis - the floor was held down to these by screws.

Image
Here's the third floor section (front) with the first block of polystyrene fitted. Note the missing beam in the bottom right - this is deliberate. Once the sections are joined together on the long side, I'll glue in beams that overlap the sections to make the joins stronger. Old batteries make handy gravity clamps! The original floor did not have a beam running up the centre; the hole is for access to the vehicle battery.

Image
Here's a view in from the back. The three floor sections have since had a coat of gloss white on their down side. I think it's dingy enough under a vehicle already - hence silver and white!

The next major hurdle is making up the front wall. This is made of four pieces in the original design: two identical side wall pieces, a beam across the bottom that slots into the ladder chassis, and a simple wide beam joining the top - all made of solid wood and stapled together then screwed into battens around the cab edges. I'm going to use the same layout but cut it from some good quality plywood instead. When I made some shelves last Xmas with round internal and external curves I made a template which I'll re use for the corners. On the rear-facing side, this will have wallboard ply that will overlap the joins for strength and I'll biscuit joint and staples the pieces together. The front-facing side will come later when I redo the cab. That will mark a major turn-around in the project: instead of taking old stuff out, I'll be putting new stuff back!

Re: Advantura Rebuild

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Post by VDUB384 » Club admin » Fri Sep 29, 2017 11:07 am
Joined: Wed Sep 12, 2012 9:01 am
Posts: 1305
Looking at the reg on your Advantura is very simular to the one I've just sold XGL 161T that was a CF350 Advantura.
Dave
Whilst good maintainece is the best prevention"If its not broken don't fix it."
Image

Re: Advantura Rebuild

Post by tctor68 » Fri Sep 29, 2017 10:30 pm
Joined: Fri Dec 20, 2013 2:37 am
Posts: 304
Looking a proper job job there Rob, keep up the good work and posts on here :thumb:

Tor

Re: Advantura Rebuild

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Post by Phil Bradshaw » Club admin » Mon Oct 02, 2017 3:19 pm
Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2012 7:15 pm
Posts: 3468
I hadn't realised that outriggers were added to the original chassis as well as the additional floor bearers between the chassis longitudinal members.

Interesting bit of over-engineering compared to some, maybe why Advantura bodies on 350 models have lasted so long.

To protect steel box sections try spraying WaxOyl into them. Needs re-applying every so often (about 5 years in water spray areas my panel van) but I've found that a schutz gun with refillable cartridge fires the stuff in faster and further than anything else.
  • What is real is not the external form but the idea, the essence of things. Constantin Brâncuși

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