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Charging woes

Post by Kooda » Subscribing Member » Sun Sep 20, 2015 6:31 pm
Joined: Tue Nov 05, 2013 1:55 pm
Posts: 111
After realising the measure batteries weren't charging, I disconnected them and check the vehicle battery. I'm getting 12.4v across the battery terminals at idle and 12.1v across the terminals at approx 3000 rpm.
The connections to the alternator, solinoid and battery are good.
I have an updated 70amp alternator fitted as of November 14.

Any ideas?
Thanks again,
Finn.

Re: Charging woes

Post by halber » Sun Sep 20, 2015 8:16 pm
Hi,

I would do the following:

1.
battery when the engine is OFF
if more than 12,2v = o.k.

. 2
when the engine is running, then have to be measurable minimum 13V (13 ... 14.5)

you write: revolutions at 3,000 = 12,1v
that is not OK.

. 3
check all connections. make clean the contacts.

if now not improved: let the alternator by check in a workshop

Jörg

(Google Translator)

Re: Charging woes

Post by Kooda » Subscribing Member » Sun Sep 20, 2015 8:19 pm
Joined: Tue Nov 05, 2013 1:55 pm
Posts: 111
So, I went surfing then got in the van to drive a couple of miles back to where I was staying and the charge light was about 3/4 bright. Turning on the wipers bought it to full brightness. The hill leveled out a bit so I snatched 3rd gear and the charge light went out!

I hooked up the leisure batteries and it's now giving a 13.2v and up to 15amp charge.

I'll check all the connections tomorrow morning otherwise it might be something is loose in the alternator.

Re: Charging woes

Post by halber » Sun Sep 20, 2015 8:27 pm
Old car with old wires and switches versus new alternator.

My tip: old wires ...

Check all connections, clean, contact grease top

Re: Charging woes

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Post by Phil Bradshaw » Club admin » Sun Sep 20, 2015 8:48 pm
Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2012 7:15 pm
Posts: 4673
One wire to be sure of checking is the alternator earth which is essential for units mounted on rubber bushes.
The wire should run between a stud at the rear of the alternator and one of the mounting bracket to crankcase bolts.
Wire should be as thick as the main cable from the alternator to the starter solenoid.

If the van has CF2 wiring (21-way fusebox) then check the engine to front harness multi-pin connector above the engine for dodgy terminals. Quick test is to operate the heater blower with the engine idling and twist the plug and socket; if blower operation becomes intermittent and, or, the engine tries to cut out then separate the plug and socket (battery disconnected) to examine the terminals for corrosion.

If the 70 Amp alternator is a Bosch unit (standard on GM 2.3D) or similar with the voltage regulator/brush box assembly secured to the back of the unit by two screws then it should be possible to remove the assembly to check the brushes length and condition (burned face/s, disintegration, sticking in holder). This is best done with the alternator removed from the vehicle so that the slip rings inside the unit can be examined as well.
  • What is real is not the appearance but the idea, the essence of things. Constantin Brâncuși

Re: Charging woes

Post by Kooda » Subscribing Member » Sun Sep 20, 2015 9:05 pm
Joined: Tue Nov 05, 2013 1:55 pm
Posts: 111
Thanks Jorg and Phil.

I ran a 35mm cable from the body of the alternator back to the bolt that the battery Earths on so that should be OK.

It's the older 12 fuse box. Which I think I will replace with a newer blade fuse type because the fuses keep giving up. Not blowing the fusable part but just stop working. ;)

Re: Charging woes

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Post by VDUB384 » Club admin » Mon Sep 21, 2015 8:08 am
Joined: Wed Sep 12, 2012 9:01 am
Posts: 1592
Just out of interest what voltage are you getting at the alternator thick brown wire ( without engine running) it should be the same as the starter battery voltage, I ask this because after I had a recon 75 amp alternator fitted I found it wasn't charging, put my other back on still not charging . I took the recon back saying it wasn't working but when checked on the machine it was, the guy checked my battery volts then checked the volts at the alternator to find the was no volts there, this was caused by the thick brown wire from the starter solenoid breaking off put a new connection on and it was ok.
Dave
Whilst good maintainece is the best prevention"If its not broken don't fix it."
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Re: Charging woes

Post by Kooda » Subscribing Member » Fri Sep 25, 2015 11:12 am
Joined: Tue Nov 05, 2013 1:55 pm
Posts: 111
With a view to the drive home I decided it was time to roll around in the gravel In an obscure National Trust car park.

The first thing I noticed was the alternator bracket with the slot in it was broken and the wasn't much belt tension. I didn't fancy my chancing of getting a replacement in these parts, so I set about bodging it. The additional tension made no difference to the alternator output.

So I removed the alternator and took off the little box with the brushes in it off. At which point a guy (Pete) in a Astra van shows up and starts having a chat. I've got one of these he says ....(it transpires he has 4). So we have a chat and it turns out he is local, so I ask the magic question......" Yes, I've got a spare alternator too, I'll be back in 20 mins".

I scraped the surface off the end of the brushes with the tiny file on my multi tool (not really knowing what I'm doing), and also tidy up the terminals which were quite pitted with a small screwdriver, pinch the terminals on the plug and put it all back together. And........viola! 13.8 volt charge.

Pete returned with a spare alternator which was an old 5 wire but I've altered the wiring to the 3 plug and that seems sorted anyway. And an alternator bracket, for which he refuses payment and I duly fit!

Thanks Pete, you're a star!

Re: Charging woes

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Post by Phil Bradshaw » Club admin » Fri Sep 25, 2015 9:13 pm
Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2012 7:15 pm
Posts: 4673
Excellent result and nice to know that there's still some good people about too. :)
  • What is real is not the appearance but the idea, the essence of things. Constantin Brâncuși

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