Poor starting, knocking at 40mph (scott911)

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Post by Phil Bradshaw » Club admin » Sat Mar 21, 2015 11:55 pm
Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2012 7:15 pm
Posts: 3587
scott911 wrote:... if i leve it for 10 minutes it will not start will spin over and over and over and fires cuts fires cuts out then fires revs and runs but lumpy on tick over sometimes cutting out and when driving along the road at about 40 mph about 4500 rpm ish i t makes a slight diesel sound under the rocker cover and im scared its gonna snapped cam shaft all over again just sctracning my head to what it could be as i have already replace main fuel lines from tank and lift pump which fixed it last time so now the question is why would it make a sound at around 4500 like its over dieseling and hunt on tick over sometimes cutting out :)
Poor starting as described and light knocking at higher rpm both can be caused by air in the fuel.

Check for -

Air leak into the injection pump, e.g. bleed screw not tight or sealing washer missing.

Air leak in hose or connections between the injection pump and regulator valve on the filter head outlet.

Regulator valve missing from filter head outlet or faulty. Valve should remain closed when blown through both ways (i.e. using low pressure air) and only open when fuel pumped through using the hand primer by or cranking the engine on the starter.
  • What is real is not the external form but the idea, the essence of things. Constantin Brâncuși

Re: Poor starting, knocking at 40mph (scott911)

Post by scott911 » Sun Mar 22, 2015 10:03 am
yes me to lol so glade shes derivable again and surprising sounds loads quieter than it did before strange lol and many thanks again to you phil for directing me and help me on the road to successful repair of old Sheryl girl :) yes there was a little copper washer on center bleed screw that jumped off lol when i bleed fuel system i couldn't find it but not to worry i have a complete spare one on other injector pump and spare fuel rail and feeds you say regulator missing what dose it look like and ill see if its there also you say sticking valve is that inside the cylinder head you think or fuel pump because its bad news isnt it if its in the cylinder head were there valve is sticking i did have a thought maybe the valve clearance is set a little tight on one or to of the lifter arms causing it to stick closed or open sometimes and i still get blue smoke when first started and smells like un burnt diesel again but dose clear once reved a couple of times :D

Re: Poor starting, knocking at 40mph (scott911)

Post by scott911 » Sun Mar 22, 2015 7:16 pm
so i checked the valves gain one was a little to tight so backed it off fitted a new copper sealing washer and its running 1000 times better and surprising allot quicker on pick up but still rattles my ear drums but in a good way i think lol when running but its still draing fuel back to tank after switching off the engine you can actual here the fuel dripping back down into fuel tank so basically every time i start it its having to bleed its self before it will fire but im puzzled as its got good fuel lines good copper sealing washer new injector loop pipes new lift pump would a bad injector cause the issue its defanlty gotta be fuel issue as once she is running she is fine but dose blow smoke out when you put your foot down again lol :)

Re: Poor starting, knocking at 40mph (scott911)

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Post by Phil Bradshaw » Club admin » Sun Mar 22, 2015 10:22 pm
Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2012 7:15 pm
Posts: 3587
On the 23D engine the regulator/non-return valve is on the outlet of the filter -

Image

Valve (1) should allow fuel to pass when engine cranked on starter or hand primer (2) is used but remain closed when engine not running in order to prevent fuel in the injection pump from draining to the tank.

Check for faulty valve (not closing) or missing/leaky copper washers on valve outlet connection to the injection pump (air entering system).
  • What is real is not the external form but the idea, the essence of things. Constantin Brâncuși

Re: Poor starting, knocking at 40mph (scott911)

Post by scott911 » Sun Mar 22, 2015 10:57 pm
ok thank you for reply mate but im priority sure my engine has got Fig 1 but does Have fig 2 hand primer but did used to run ok after i fitted new lift pump but i have 2 engines so if i haven't got one ill just take it from the other engine and give it a shot im wondering now weather my new lift pump my be nackerd due to having to work over time when engine was run with snapped cam shaft and all the work its had to do since cylinder head was changed :?

Re: Poor starting, knocking at 40mph (scott911)

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Post by Phil Bradshaw » Club admin » Sun Mar 22, 2015 11:14 pm
Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2012 7:15 pm
Posts: 3587
Engine has or has not got valve (1)?
  • What is real is not the external form but the idea, the essence of things. Constantin Brâncuși

Re: Poor starting, knocking at 40mph (scott911)

Post by scott911 » Sun Mar 22, 2015 11:27 pm
it don't have one mate

Re: Poor starting, knocking at 40mph (scott911)

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Post by Phil Bradshaw » Club admin » Mon Mar 23, 2015 2:41 am
Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2012 7:15 pm
Posts: 3587
Missing valve is a reason for poor cold starting and can cause other problems too.
  • What is real is not the external form but the idea, the essence of things. Constantin Brâncuși

Re: Poor starting, knocking at 40mph (scott911)

Post by scott911 » Mon Mar 23, 2015 9:03 pm
Ok I've put a new lift pump injectors and copper washers fuel lines and injector loop pipes replaced primer pump and glow plug tested and all ok so its starting all the time now. Even. After 5 hours un touched warm plugs and away she gose but after all of this I've now noticed while re fighting fam belt that the 2 13m nuts that hold injector pump on had wound loose and the engine is hunting when cold and sounds diesely on top end like a hollow sound not a deep sound.

Re: Poor starting, knocking at 40mph (scott911)

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Post by Phil Bradshaw » Club admin » Mon Mar 23, 2015 9:47 pm
Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2012 7:15 pm
Posts: 3587
If the two injection pump securing nuts have worked loose then the pump may not have moved if the injector pipes haven't been disturbed - usually the pipes have to be slackened before the pump can be rotated.

If you're lucky then tightening the nuts will stop the pump from vibrating but if the pump timing has been upset then you'll need to reset it using a DTI (dial test indicator) and adaptor for the VE pump.
  • What is real is not the external form but the idea, the essence of things. Constantin Brâncuși

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