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Ball Joint Dust Cover question

Post by bigmaddrongo » Mon Jun 08, 2015 9:10 pm
So after my MOT this morning, one of the failures was "Offside upper suspension ball joint dust cover excessively deteriorated so that it no longer prevents the ingress of dirt".

Now due to me being unswayed by deadlines and thus always leaving things to the last minute, I need to get this sorted and retested by Thursday as I need to be at Glastonbury for work. My question then is just how much work is it going to be to replace this cover?

Re: Ball Joint Dust Cover question

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Post by Phil Bradshaw » Club admin » Mon Jun 08, 2015 9:50 pm
Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2012 7:15 pm
Posts: 3669
You'll need a new ball joint boot: most car spares places of any repute will stock Mafco selections so go for the one that's slightly smaller on the larger (inner) diameter than the ball joint groove which is about 33mm in diameter.

A new garter spring will help too but the old one may be re-usable if carefully removed. Otherwise use a thin neoprene O-ring stretched tight over the larger diameter of the boot, double wrap of 0.6mm welding wire with ends twisted together or even a very thin cable tie.

Slacken the wheel nuts then jack up the van under the lower wishbone so that the upper bump rubber lifts off from the axle beam and the road wheel can be removed. A good idea to support the chassis on stands, either forwards of the front axle beam or behind the control rods behind the beam.

Slacken then remove the ball joint nut which may be 3/4-inch (original) or 11/16-inch AF (after-market) -

Image

CF2 with disc brake shown; arrangement identical for all other models.

Use a ball joint splitter to separate the ball joint pin from the taper in the steering knuckle -

Image

The pin may jump out with a bang but once the pressure has gone from the separator the wishbone won't go far.

In absence of a splitter a hammer can be applied horizontally - smartly rather than with any great force - to the top of the steering knuckle around the ball joint pin, on the flatter part of the knuckle, to shock the pin from the taper but loosely fit the nut first in case a mis-hit wallops the pin thread.

Once the pin is free of the knuckle the old boot and garter spring can be removed and the new boot fitted after wiping clean the groove in the ball joint. If the ball joint doesn't have a grease nipple then half fill the new boot with lithium base (wheel bearing) grease before fitting the boot.

The larger diameter of the boot must be secured by a garter spring, neoprene ring or whatever so that the boot cannot peel off from the ball joint when the suspension moves. The smaller diameter should be a tight enough fit on the ball joint pin to need pushing up towards the thick end of the taper.

Image

Clean and dry the pin and taper in the knuckle then assemble the pin to the knuckle and secure using a new nut if possible (should be 7/16-inch UNF nyloc).

If the ball pin spins in the knuckle before the nut is tight then back off the nut so that an open end spanner can be inserted and used as a lever to hold the pin tight in the knuckle while tightening the nut. Fully hand tighten the nut with the spanner in place then leave it a few minutes (brew time ...) for the mating surfaces to bind together before slackening to remove the spanner.

Final tightening of the ball pin nut should be to a torque of 52 Nm (38 lbf ft). Tighten gradually rather than snatch at the nut in case the ball pin spins in the knuckle ...

Ball joint with a grease nipple can be lubricated while the van is supported under the lower wishbone. Aim to add enough grease for the boot to just start to swell then stop. Adding any more grease will only result in the excess oozing out.

Tightening torque of wheel nuts for 5-stud hubs should be 68 Nm (50 lbf ft), threads clean and dry.
  • What is real is not the external form but the idea, the essence of things. Constantin Brâncuși

Re: Ball Joint Dust Cover question

Post by philbut » Mon Jun 15, 2015 12:03 pm
Joined: Thu Oct 03, 2013 11:30 am
Posts: 247
Good luck

I will also be trying to persuade mine down to Glasto on Saturday (I'm working)

Re: Ball Joint Dust Cover question

Post by guy » Wed Jun 01, 2016 10:06 pm
hi again ...my wagon went through MOT and failed on this and a few other things ...the funny thing is I too am off to glasto very soon so can any one point me in the right direction to buy a NEW o/s upper ball joint and 2 NEW lower track rod ends needed asap so any help would be more than welcome ..

Re: Ball Joint Dust Cover question

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Post by Phil Bradshaw » Club admin » Thu Jun 02, 2016 1:01 pm
Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2012 7:15 pm
Posts: 3669
Top ball joint. Look for GM 8821498, Quinton Hazell QSJ835S, FirstLine FBJ5074.

Track rod end. Look for GM 8845298, Quinton Hazell QR1379, FirstLine FTR4039.
  • What is real is not the external form but the idea, the essence of things. Constantin Brâncuși

Re: Ball Joint Dust Cover question

Post by guy » Thu Jun 02, 2016 1:22 pm
hi are these threaded the same, ebay has a pair with rh threads or someone else is selling separately but says both are the same but it works out twice the price. are all threaded the same please?
many thanks

Re: Ball Joint Dust Cover question

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Post by Phil Bradshaw » Club admin » Thu Jun 02, 2016 1:30 pm
Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2012 7:15 pm
Posts: 3669
Ball joints and track rod ends are not handed.

Ball pin threads may differ according to manufacture. Each joint should come with a new nut.
  • What is real is not the external form but the idea, the essence of things. Constantin Brâncuși

Re: Ball Joint Dust Cover question

Post by guy » Thu Jun 02, 2016 9:25 pm
lovely thanks for your help AGAIN .....seems parts are getting harder to get lol...got a dodgy back light that ill fix AGAIN and something wrong with exhust ...goes in wed next week so fingers crossed ah
thanks again old sons

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