Where to find help when you want to change major units on your CF - engine, transmission, brakes etc. - or upgrade earlier models to later specifications.
Kooda
 
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I've got a 2.3 slant what is it a five speed box and standard diff (4.6??). The drivetrain ratios are pretty good but I just need about 30% more welly so before I go down the engine conversion route is anything that is likely the bolts up to this gearbox? I've got a funny stealing that I already know the answer.

The engine is on about 80,000 K so it needs the Cambelt soon and there is also a very small cylinder head gasket leak that needs sorting. So it looks like doing some head work to the original engine could be possible at this stage. I guess I could increase the compression ratio and perhaps have the cam reground during this process which would yield a little bit more poke but otherwise it will be an expensive process with the existing Engine. I believe these have 8.6 compression ratio as standard, but what can they be taken to the 10:1 or maybe even more with a copperhead gasket.

The Fly in the engine conversion ointment is that I want to run it on LPG and there are not many modern engines that have cylinder heads that can handle it. It seems to be only the Mercedes and BMW engines that don't suffer really bad valve seat wear.

Cheers,

Finn.

Postby Kooda » Mon Aug 22, 2016 8:55 am


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Phil Bradshaw
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The conventional way to get more power from a 2279cc Vauxhall OHC engine is to fit flat top pistons (FD, FE VX4/90) with the large inlet valve cylinder head.
A 4 to 2 exhaust manifold and relatively long twin front pipes before the Y junction will do a lot to help as well.

For LPG operation the head will require hard exhaust valves seats at least plus any work to restore valve stem height to standard, sleeving worn valve guides etc.
Around £300 should cover everything being done, to which the cost of valves and springs will have to be added.
    What is real is not the external form but the idea, the essence of things. Constantin Brâncuși

Postby Phil Bradshaw » Mon Aug 22, 2016 9:47 am


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Thanks Phil ,

Could the compression ratio not be dealt with via skimming the head? It looks like there is some meat there that could be removed. The engine runs quite nicely so I don't really want to take part the bottom end to fit new pistons if I can possibly avoid it. Ideally I would buy another head, do the work to that and then swap it all over in a day.

Thanks,
Finn.

Postby Kooda » Mon Aug 22, 2016 2:03 pm


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Phil Bradshaw
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Cylinder head minimum thickness is 91.39 mm (3.598 inch), camshaft housing face to bottom face at valves centre line: there's b-all to go at for bumping up compression.

Try a cylinder compression test to assess valves and seats condition now.
Optimum for a hot engine is about 9.3 bar (135 psi) when all valves are seating well.

If compression generally is low but racks up to optimum after injecting engine oil into the cylinders then just restoring the head to standard spec. can significantly improve performance.
    What is real is not the external form but the idea, the essence of things. Constantin Brâncuși

Postby Phil Bradshaw » Mon Aug 22, 2016 6:41 pm


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How about this?

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vi ... ID=EBAY-GB

Should do the trick! :lol: :roll:

Postby Kooda » Sun Aug 28, 2016 6:52 pm


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Phil Bradshaw
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Nice, if it's not knackered.

There won't be a lot of room left in a CF cab for much else ... :)
    What is real is not the external form but the idea, the essence of things. Constantin Brâncuși

Postby Phil Bradshaw » Mon Aug 29, 2016 3:38 pm


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Hi Phil,
I may have found a car engine for rebuild.
How would I go about identifying a car engine with flat top Pistons without pulling the head off? Engine number perhaps?

Thanks again,

Finn

Postby Kooda » Wed Sep 14, 2016 8:09 pm


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Phil Bradshaw
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Earlier blocks (to ~1974) have a letter H instead of L stamped on the flat adjacent to the oil pump/distributor flange just behind the cambelt cover.

Later blocks have H instead of L with the engine size (23 for 2279cc) and number stamped on the flat above the starter motor aperture.
    What is real is not the external form but the idea, the essence of things. Constantin Brâncuși

Postby Phil Bradshaw » Thu Sep 15, 2016 8:35 am


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VDUB384
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You do realise Finn it you want to run on LPG you loose about 20% on both mileage and power unless you can get an injection system fitted but these are very rarely fitted to carb engine vehicles.
Dave
Whilst good maintainece is the best prevention"If its not broken don't fix it."
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Postby VDUB384 » Thu Sep 15, 2016 9:47 am


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hi Phil,

Do either of these mean anything to you?

Engine Number:12H-161-H4099. 9958832NWH

Engine number: 23L3408629 91030918NWH

Both are near the starter flange.

Is the later a van engine with the "L"?

Thanks again,

Finn

Postby Kooda » Wed Sep 21, 2016 2:25 pm