Where to find help when you want to change major units on your CF - engine, transmission, brakes etc. - or upgrade earlier models to later specifications.
FatJon73
 
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So my new cf2 only has use of 1 door... The passenger door does not work on key... And the knob works when it wants to..... So to get round this I though about adding central locking to the 2 front doors......

Any advice on this please?..... Is it an easy mod.... Will the cheap ones off ebay be good enough...... Or do I need something specific......

Thanks....

Jon

Postby FatJon73 » Wed Aug 12, 2015 12:50 am


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Phil Bradshaw
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Cheap lock motors linked to the door lock rods will do the job fine provided the lock is kept lubricated and free moving.

In times past I bolted motors to the door inner panel below the lock and made a link rod to clamp to the original rod for lock button (button retained). Part of an alarm system too, horribly expensive at the time, but a present day cheap end alarm often comes with central locking via the fob.

Best thing I found with fob locking was being able to get into the van in freezing weather but there is a downside: more effort required when unlocking a door with a key when batteries go flat. Made worse by unused exterior locks jamming up ...

Unforeseen consequence: much harder to break into van when keys lost (see downside above).

Wiring for door locks should be cable tied and taped to the door lower hinge then passed up the A post to the hole in the upper corner before disappearing behind the dash. The drop of wiring in the A post is to ensure best freedom of movement of the wires when the door is opened and closed: going from the top hinge to the dash will result in wiring damage even when plenty of slack is available. Wiring should be loose sleeved with PVC tubing to protect the wires from coming against sharp edges.
    What is real is not the external form but the idea, the essence of things. Constantin Brâncuși

Postby Phil Bradshaw » Wed Aug 12, 2015 1:28 am


FatJon73
 
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Great info cheers,will do this when I do fit them..... Only way I can think of sorting the locking out.... And you get an alarm at same time... Lol....

Postby FatJon73 » Wed Aug 12, 2015 3:05 am


Shambolic
 
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Phil Bradshaw wrote:
Wiring for door locks should be cable tied and taped to the door lower hinge then passed up the A post to the hole in the upper corner before disappearing behind the dash. The drop of wiring in the A post is to ensure best freedom of movement of the wires when the door is opened and closed: going from the top hinge to the dash will result in wiring damage even when plenty of slack is available. Wiring should be loose sleeved with PVC tubing to protect the wires from coming against sharp edges.


I know this is necroposting and a bit of a hijack, but I'm interested in fitting c/l to my current project (tied into an Avital 3100 alarm, as they're cheap but actually quite nice specs and thus far reliable on my daily driver). Are you saying it's possible to safetly route the wiring without drilling new holes in everything?

Postby Shambolic » Sun Jun 25, 2017 3:52 pm


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Phil Bradshaw
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Like this -

Image

Using thinwall 0.5mm² cable it's possible to squeeze 7 or 8 wires through the gap between the lower hinge and door panel, here as 2-wire cable for lock motor and 5-wire cable for mirror heater and side repeater, all bundled together in 8mm PVC sleeve to pass beneath the lower hinge; cables strapped beneath drop glass lower stop inside the inner door panel.
    What is real is not the external form but the idea, the essence of things. Constantin Brâncuși

Postby Phil Bradshaw » Sun Jun 25, 2017 9:01 pm


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After trying to drill suitably sized, placed holes in the Triumph that looks too easy!

And has me contemplating electric windows to go with the central locking.

Totally off door electrics topic, but on the subject of doors - There doesn't seem to be any form of check strap. Is there a tried and tested method of having the doors stay open so they don't try to smash into not quite nimble enough ankles?

Postby Shambolic » Mon Jun 26, 2017 2:23 am


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Phil Bradshaw
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U-form check spring riveted to the top hinge bracket grips the hinge leaf when the door is fully opened. In theory; the spring often is broken, sometimes almost from new when the CF was in production.

A piece of softwood trimmed down to wedge between the bottom hinge and its aperture in the A post will keep the door open when working on the van.

Then the problem is remembering to remove the wedge. :wall:

Electric windows sounds like a challenge ...
    What is real is not the external form but the idea, the essence of things. Constantin Brâncuși

Postby Phil Bradshaw » Mon Jun 26, 2017 2:46 am