Where to find help when you want to change major units on your CF - engine, transmission, brakes etc. - or upgrade earlier models to later specifications.
philbut
 
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I found a stock LHD clutch cable form the early Bedford box worked well with the type 9. You would need a longer cable if you had an RHD van.

I've also fitted the stock Ford throttle cable (even though I've ditched the auto box so don't need the electronic kickdown facility) and done a slight modification to the Bedford throttle peddle to accept it. the ford grommet fits nicely in the bulkhead with a small amount of work with a file.

The high pressure fuel pump fits well behind the RHS headlamp, using the ford foam housing cut down to fit.

the other mod I did was to relocate the heater matrix to the engine side of the bulkhead and fit a CF2 heater valve, to free up a hole in the engine tunnel for the ECU loom... Just needs a patient bit of filing to enlarge the hole... more to follow.

Postby philbut » Wed May 20, 2015 11:53 am


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VDUB384
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Well Phil it should certainly have plenty of grunt and your doing a very good job with loads of information for anyone else wishing to do the same conversion well done.
Dave.
Whilst good maintainece is the best prevention"If its not broken don't fix it."
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Postby VDUB384 » Thu May 21, 2015 7:08 am


Kooda
 
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Looks good Phil.

I can also recommend Bailey Morris.

I gather you are using a CF1 Master cylinder master to the CF2 servo? Last time I offered up a CF2 servo and master cylinder it stuck out the front by 3".

Postby Kooda » Thu May 21, 2015 11:05 am


philbut
 
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Ah, its a CF1 master from a later model van, so twin port rather than 3 (with return for LAV). I have offered up my CF2 master and it looked like it would fit, but the inner skin of the bonnet would need to be *modified* with a hammer ;-) until I fit the CF2 rear axle I'm going to keep the original master as I don't need the return port.

The CF1 master fits right onto the CF2 servo though, and allows you to retain the delay valve.

Postby philbut » Thu May 21, 2015 12:41 pm


Rquedley
 
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Thats a lot of work, wow, LIKE!

Postby Rquedley » Thu May 21, 2015 8:42 pm


philbut
 
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Well she runs! Engine bay needs a bit of tidying and some wires re-routing, but sounding good. Now need to fix the exhaust to chassis and bleed brakes...

Postby philbut » Sun May 31, 2015 7:50 pm


philbut
 
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Ladies and gentlemen, vanny now has a brand new MOT with no advisories! Not bad. Bit of rear brake imbalance but other than that all good. Good job too, I was up at 5am finishing her off before the test!

A few minor hiccups on the way there (35 miles round trip). The tank has some crap in that blocked the gauss on the electric lift pump and she started to run lean, eventually grinding to a halt. Easy diagnosis as the pump was making a hell of a din. Started behaving the same on the way home, so my spare tank might have tom come out of retirement...

Brakes are rubbish but I know why. Will be discussed in my thread in CF questions.

Postby philbut » Sat Jun 13, 2015 10:38 am


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Phil Bradshaw
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Happiness is a new MoT test certificate. :) Well done.

If there's nothing obvious found in the tank then check the pick-up pipe for forrin bodies lodged in the bend at the top or tar deposits lower down restricting the pipe enough for a small bit of crud to shut off flow.

If the pipe has to come out then an 8 ounce copper bit soldering iron should be enough to sweat the joint to the tank around the collar welded to the pipe.
    What is real is not the external form but the idea, the essence of things. Constantin Brâncuși

Postby Phil Bradshaw » Sat Jun 13, 2015 11:53 am


philbut
 
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I think it is a result of some POR15 I used on the tank. Reading up on it I now regret it. Loads of people have reported it breaking down after a few years. I get silver flakes of rubbery stuff (the POR15) blocking the coarse filter pre-pump.

My old CF2 tank looks rusty as hell on the outside, but the inside is mint :-) Benefits of it being from a van that was in constant use for 25 years before the rot took her...

Postby philbut » Sat Jun 13, 2015 8:37 pm


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Phil Bradshaw
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That's a pity but it doesn't surprise me because over time any coating will degrade even with the advances made in polymers and co-polymers since the 1970s. Indeed, it only needs a change in the formulation of petrol to render a previously robust coating ineffective ...

I've never seen the need to treat fuel tank interiors anyway, certainly not on CFs where the tank is tinned inside and out and usually corrodes from the outside in.

Best of luck with the CF2 tank. If it's anything like the one on my 1976 van it will need a good dose of cleaning up and sealing where the exterior has corroded at the rear and down the side where it sits close to the inner sill.
    What is real is not the external form but the idea, the essence of things. Constantin Brâncuși

Postby Phil Bradshaw » Sun Jun 14, 2015 1:52 am